Anegundi. Does the name ring a bell? It may not for most. However, mention Hampi and people are sure to be aware of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. Anegundi stands in the shadow of its more illustrious sister Hampi, on the other side of the river Tungabhadra in the state of Karnataka. The village stands as a forgotten chapter of history awaiting the attention of readers. A village just stirring with activity as more and more people awake to its amazing history and historical landmarks.
Anegundi was known more as a backpackers’ haven across the river for visitors to Hampi. But Anegundi is much more than that. It is a village where history and mythology cast their spell around every obscure corner.
A statue of the best known King of the Vijayanagar Empire, Krishnadevaraya stares at you from a lofty pedestal near the entrance to the village. The village itself is set in the midst of lush green paddy fields bounded by rocky hills creating landscapes that are a visual delight. Anegundi has been stirred from slumber by an NGO called Kishkinda Trust that is working on the development of sustainable tourism and protection of its heritage. The trust works with the women of Anegundi who make baskets, hats, and other items from banana fibre, and these make their way to Indian and overseas customers.
THE MYTHOLOGICAL CONNECT
Anegundi was earlier known as Kishkindha. It is believed that this picturesque and serene village was the setting for one of the most crucial chapters of the epic Ramayan. Kishkindha was where Ram and Lakshman met Sugriv and Hanuman. The place where Ram killed Vali and the place from where the mission to rescue Sita from the clutches of Ravan was launched.
There are many places that are identified with various incidents of the epic in and around Anegundi, the Kishkindha of yore. There is a cave, up in the hills that is known as Vali’s cave. Legend has it that this was where Vali fought an epic battle with a demon named Mayavi. A beautiful lake called Pampa Sarovara surrounded by hills is believed to have been the place where Ram and Lakshman came in search of Sita and were first spotted by Sugriv. Another major landmark with mythological connections is a hill called Anjanadri. This hill on which stands a temple dedicated to Hanuman is believed to have been the birthplace of Hanuman. There is an old fort that locals called Vali’s Fort, but of course the fort dates back to more recent history, to the time of the Vijayanagar Empire.
WRAPPED IN LAYERS OF HISTORY
It is not only the association of Anegundi with mythology that is astonishing. What seems to be a small sleepy village of India today, was once the epicentre of power in the region. Its history dates back to the 3rd century to the time of Ashoka. Anegundi has seen the likes of the Bijapur Sultans, Mughals, Tipu Sultan, and the Marathas walk on its soil and rule and wage battle. These dynasties have left their footprints in Anegundi, but the most prominent and lasting impressions that can be found are those from the Vijayanagar Empire. Anegundi was the old capital of the empire, before the honour was bestowed upon Hampi.
The village and its vicinity are full of landmarks that tell the story of its amazing history. There is an old Durga Temple, just outside the remains of the old fort. The kings of the Vijayanagar Empire are said to have worshipped at this temple before heading out to war. There is a beautiful structure called Gagan Mahal which is also known as the ‘old palace’. The building was the royal abode of the Vijayanagar Empire and constructed in the Indo-Islamic style of architecture. The palace has decorative protruding windows and balconies that even today retain some of the original exquisiteness. The balconies overlook an open space where probably entertainment shows were held for the royal family.
Near the banks of the river Tungabhadra and submerged when the river is full is an intriguing structure supported by 64 pillars. This too dates back to the Vijayanagar Empire and is associated with Krishnadevaraya. Though some point out to it as the Samadhi of Krishnadevaraya, there is no credence to this claim, historically speaking.
SAMADHIS OF SAINTS
On an island off the banks of the river Tungabhadra in Anegundi is the sacred resting place of nine Hindu Madhava saints. These include Padmanabha Tirtha who was a direct disciple of Jagadguru Madhavacharya as well as Sudhindra Tirtha who was the guru of Raghavendra Tirtha. This is a very sacred and holy place for the Hindus. A coracle ride takes one to this island which is bathed in an aura of divine peace and tranquility.
Anegundi is a village with many a hidden mystery waiting to be unravelled. The area around this region is also believed to be one of the oldest plateaus of the earth dating back millions of years. Neolithic rock paintings too have been found in the vicinity of Anegundi making it a village that stands as a silent witness to the passage of history across the frontiers of time.
(Sandy & Vyjay are travel couple bloggers and writers who blog at imvoyager.com)
