Haven’t we all had ‘serious’ discussions on global warming, depleting ozone layer, siting in an air-conditioned room? We also have had chats on trendy attire, and how one needs to buy sustainable clothing, without really knowing what is sustainable, organic or ethical dressing.
Time we stopped flinging these labels casually and paid close attention to how and what we wear can affect the pollution level. Yes, our four wheelers and public transport emit fumes, but did you know that the fashion industry is one of the biggest polluting industries in the world?
On International Day for the Preservation of the Ozone Layer (September 16), let’s move away from fast fashion, to wearing something enduring. Fast fashion is bad for the environment because in a pressure to reduce the cost and time in manufacturing a garment, it takes help of toxic chemicals. This results in increasing levels of textile waste. Textile dyeing is the second largest polluter of clean water globally, after agriculture.
Greenpeace, an environmental organisation, has launched a campaign: Detox My Fashion, which challenges clothing brands to take responsibility for the impact of fashion on the environment, and aims to achieve zero discharge of hazardous chemicals by 2020.
Ellen Macarthur Foundation — an organisation that works with businesses, government and academia to build a framework for an economy that is restorative and regenerative by design — has published a report on how it is extremely important to be mindful of how we consume fashion.
So think before you go shopping in a mall or adding a pretty dress, a nice shirt or maybe a pair of shoes to your cart online. What you wear will have consequences on the environment.
This makes us keen to seek the opinions of the biggies in the fashion industry. How are they incorporating sustainability in their work? Fashion designers Anita Dongre and Amit Aggarwal, and stylist blogger Tanisha Aggarwal tell us about the choices they have made and why sustainability is the future of not just Indian but global fashion too.
Why sustainable fashion?
Amit Aggarwal, known for his sustainable choices both on the runway and off the ramp, says that the times we are living in demands a certain sense of awareness towards the environment. “I feel every practitioner needs to take measures that are beneficial towards the environment. I believe in respecting what one has and in taking care of it,” he says.
“Sustainability works at different levels. In India, crafts and art, which are our heritage, will coexist along with advancements in technology. As a designer, I enjoy the material play that goes into the making of my collection. The creative process of designing clothes begins with a central recycled material around which I develop the entire collection,” adds Amit.
Anita Dongre, who started her label Grassroot, as an ode to sustainable fashion, emphasises that there isn’t any other way for fashion to survive as an industry without choosing sustainability. “We are already experiencing the effects of decades of neglect, it isn’t going to get any better with time. So it is imperative for us to adopt more sustainable practices as an industry,” she says.
Sustainable clothing feels great — whether it’s about easy breathing handwoven fabrics, beautiful textures in environmentally friendly Kala cotton or the exclusivity of a carefully hand embroidered dress. Slowly, more people are choosing these benefits, in addition to demanding change in how the fashion industry approaches production and its effect on the environment. “The progression has been slow, but more people are making these conscious choices and I have no doubt that this ‘movement’ will be the new normal in the times to come,” Anita adds.
Sustainability, for Anita, lies in creating beautiful tomorrows. She is one of the few designers who look towards the future of practising and building processes that are sustainable, innovative and environmentally conscious. That’s because sustainable fashion is the future of not only India but the world too.
Tanisha Aggarwal, a blogger and a stylist, says that when climate change is directly affecting every single living being on Earth, it is time to take into consideration how fashion is consumed worldwide because it is one of the biggest polluting industries.
“Many a time, people don’t actually realise the implications of the things they are doing until they come across these eye-opener environment reports. But by then it would be late,” she points out.
The compelling factor
Amit says that when he started his brand, he was aware of the fact that the world had changed. “There was a collective consciousness that we had to find more environmentally sustainable ways of living and I believe that tradition has a crucial role to play in this,” he says, adding, “We can use vintage products, modernise them using recyclable materials and use our creativity and intellect to still make what are truly considered luxury products. We need to revive age-old traditions, in such a way, that they too become a part of the future trends in fashion. This is what responsible fashion is.”
Anita says she wants to nurture the treasure chest of handcrafted traditions by reviving and empowering the arts and artisans by ensuring continuous work and creating livelihoods.
Tanisha, who was guilty of riding the fast fashion wave, realised that you have to ask yourself questions when you are out shopping — ‘Is the dress worth it? Do I see a long wearability in it?’ “For the sake of environment, you need to ask yourself these questions rather than buy something because you liked its colour,” she says.
What makes clean fashion
Amit says that we live in a world where a product’s life cycle can be extended through responsible design ethics. But sustainability is a process and has to be a part of you before you implement it into a collection. Talking about the process that goes behind his sustainable designs, he says, “Waste materials are picked up from various industries as leftovers. They could be anything — a scrap cloth, nylon mesh or faux leather braids, to name a few.”
He adds that they not only work with recycled materials but also reinvent vintage fabrics like Banarasi, Patola and Phulkari by infusing a new life into them and translating them into modern garments.
Explaining the work at her Grassroot label, Anita says, “Every piece of fabric that is woven, block printed or embroidered is done by a group of artisans who give it the time and attention it deserves. We work with different kinds of cotton, from fine Bhujodi and Jamdani weaves to beautiful Kala cottons and Khadis. Some of our earlier collections also had garments fashioned out of new-age fabrics such as R Elan GreenGold (made from 100 per cent used plastic bottles). I think we also need to work with recycled material such as Tencel.”
Is India ready to embrace planet friendly fashion?
“The creative community needs to take the lead and educate the Indian market so that they are inclined to protect the resources towards a healthy ecosystem,” informs Amit. “From what it used to be earlier, there has been a remarkable increase in the demand for organic clothing, textile and eco apparel. These are rapidly growing markets which are creating opportunities for companies, employees and, most importantly, the environment,” Anita says.
“As opposed to fast fashion that offers customers more and more clothes so that they are able to keep up with the ever-evolving trends, sustainability encourages people to buy less so that they discard less. This has led to consumers re-examining their tendency to over-buy and under-wear apparel, consequently leading to a higher demand for sustainable apparel,” she adds.
However, there is confusion amongst consumers about what is organic and what is not. Tanisha says, “The easiest way to identify organic products is by looking for the certified organic materials, and the composition used in making the cloth. Even if you are buying a garment from a sustainable label, there are chances that it is made from a mere percentage of sustainable materials. Fortunately, the youth these days takes effort to ask questions about not only the clothes that they are purchasing but also the accessories. I think that’s amazing and definitely the need of the hour.”
Do your bit
Amit says that consumers today pay attention to the thought, detailing and experimentation that go into making their recycled pieces from discarded material. The designer adds that if everyone understands the essence of sustainability, it is the beginning of the new age itself. “Upcycling your own clothing or your mom’s vintage sarees are some small and effective ways to begin this journey,” he says.
Anita points out that embracing sustainable fashion is easier than you think. “For one, it’s imperative to keep durability in mind when buying garments, because of which I always tell people to view every piece as an investment towards a better, more functional wardrobe. It’s smarter and more economical to exclusively add in pieces that will increase the versatility of your closet. Secondly, instead of blindly copying trends, buy classic pieces that suit your style and sensibility. In this way, your clothes won’t be relegated to the back of your closet after just a few wears. Last but not the least, pay attention to the fabrics. Opt for eco-friendly textiles that can be recycled later,” she adds.
Tanisha adds, “You can always upcycle your clothes and invest in organic brands which are easily available at exhibitions. Instead of discarding clothes and tossing them in the bin, when they’re in a good condition, consider donating them or giving them away to people who need them. Pick a garment, look at it and imagine all that it could be, you don’t have to toss it out just because it went out of trend, reinvent fashion all by yourself, be a leader, a fashionista and save the world.”
