As our SUV rolled out of the city, the view changed rapidly from high rises and construction projects to a more rural milieu. Rows of neatly lined sand dunes rose against the Hajar mountains that divide UAE and Oman. A few kilometres ahead, camel caravans, gazelles and oryx greeted us. My local host, Clara Menezes, and I were at the Bedouin village near Al Marmoom Conservation Reserve, situated an hour away from the heart of the city.
As we made our way into the conservation reserve, we were asked to board classic open air jeeps and handed a scarf each. We wrapped it tightly across our face to guard against the heat and sand while the jeep climbed from one sand-dune to another. The sand-dunes were a sight to behold, so it was only natural for us to stand amongst them and pose for selfies. The setting sun was the perfect background and proved to be the best photo filter. A few kilometres ahead, our jeep stopped in front of a camp adorned with carpets and cushions. Each of us was given a glass of Vimto, a non-alcoholic drink popularly had during Ramzan. It helped us cool down by a few degrees. We readied ourselves for the falcon show that was about to begin.
FALCONRY
Falconry is woven into the cultural heritage of Dubai and it has been a part of the desert life for ages. Falcons were used in the olden days for hunting rabbits and snails. Even today, falconry is a much loved sport among the Arabs. Sitting amidst the dunes, sipping my Vimto, I watched as the falcon, launched from the trainer’s fist, gracefully swept through the sky. As soon as the trainer swung the bait in fast circular movements, the falcon swooped through mid-air, zipping past our heads, and returned to collect food.
The artist regaled us with interesting trivia about the falcons. “She lives in a room with air conditioner. She has a physical passport and needs a visa and a ticket when travelling,” he said. It is said that once when the Sheikh was carrying his falcons out of the country for hunting, he had booked the entire business class to ensure each falcon had a seat. That is enough testimony that falcons are indeed a prized possession in the gulf.
After the show, I slipped on a falcon glove and posed with the falcon beautifully perched on my fist.
Soon after, we hopped onto a camel caravan that comprised three to four camels adorned with beautiful carpets. Sitting atop a traditional camel caravan, I retraced the footsteps of Bedouins and how life was centuries ago at the Bedouin village.
WHO WERE THE BEDOUINS?
Not many know that Bedouins were the first inhabitants of Dubai. Bedouin comes from the term “Bedu” in Arabic and means “desert dwellers”.
For centuries the Bedouins traversed the desert with their families, camels and livestock as nomads. Bedouins are considered as one of the most sustainable and eco-friendly cultures in history. This was evident when we entered the Bedouin village that was built of raw materials like goat hair and straw. Instead of cooking gas, meat was cooked in sand pits.
Our first stop was the coffee stall where we were served Arabic coffee. We watched in amazement as the Bedouins roasted coffee beans in sandpits and then ground them to make coffee powder. Other refreshments included tea and Haleeb bosh or camel milk. Live cooking demonstrations showcased Arabic cuisine beyond hummus and pita. It involved dishes like lamb thanoor (spiced lamb), thareed (chicken stew), harees (coarsely ground wheat mixed with chicken) and Lahm Hashmi (camel meat cooked with onions ). A Bedouin women made fresh regag bread with flattened balls of dough by spreading the mixture into flat sheets over a round stove. The final product resembled a modern pancake.
Sitting on the floor of the majlis (Arabic for a place of seating), we relished the feast like a real Bedouin. We rounded off our meal with Luqaimat, a sweet dumpling similar to a doughnut sprinkled with date syrup and sesame seeds.
This was followed by the Bedouin folk dance that was a spectacle to watch. It involved props like drums, swords and sticks. The Bedouin dancers swirled and brandished their swords in well defined rhythmic movements. The dance attempted to put forth a story of the Bedouin culture.
After the show, it was time to head back home. But even after we were back, the spirit of the Bedouins and the vibrant atmosphere haunted us for a few more days.
SPICE SOUK
The next day brought with it another integral part of the Emirati culture - the Arabian spices. We spent the day strolling through the spice souk with its brightly coloured spices neatly displayed in gunny bags. It was indeed a sensory overload as the shopkeeper showed me one spice after another.
There was Sumac, a deep purple spice with a lemony tartness; zaatar, a mixture of sumac, sesame seeds and herbs used throughout the gulf; and ras el hanout, a pungent North African spice used in marinades and meat dishes. I wrapped my palms around a bowl of sargol, the highest grade of Iranian saffron and took a whiff of its sweet, floral scent. In another bowl was pushal/pushali, a lower quality saffron with some yellow.
Apart from spices, there was mounds of frankincense, dried edible flowers and a lot of medicinal herbs adorning the shop fronts. But that wasn’t all. There were stalls selling beautiful stoles in Pashmina wool adorned with intricate embroidery.
We hopped on an abra (small boat) and went over to Bur Dubai from Diera. Several shops sold artifacts, souvenirs, shisha, rugs, belly dancing outfits etc. The souks made the perfect place to shop at a reasonable price. I haggled my way to a good bargain on most items I bought. That’s why, when I left the souk, I had two bags full of spices, clothes, tapestry and souvenirs without really burning a hole in my pocket but with a promise to return back soon.
