Idli and dosa are the most popular South Indian food. They are also the most basic and staple food of the region, but certainly they are not the only food. The Southern states offer other interesting flavours as well. During our recent trip to Udhagamandalam, more famously Ooty, we not only had a hearty local afternoon meal, but Saravanan, head chef, Sterling Ooty Fern Hill — Resorts and Hotels, also gave us an insight on the flavours that dominate the regional food.
To get a better picture of the spices that are used in the cuisine, the hotel has installed a spice table in a traditional Toda hut built on the premises. Colourful whole spices like red chillies, turmeric, clove, cardamom, cinnamon and pepper, are placed on niches on a table made of rock, covered with a glass top, making an attractive display. The chef pointed out that since these spices are grown in the region, these flavours dominate the food. “People here believe in using fresh produce not only because it is grown here, but because they are seasonal and have their own benefits,” said Saravanan.
Even though the Nilgiris are in Tamil Nadu, they are centrally located and accessible through Karnataka and Kerala, which is why the regional food also has a touch of these two states and the famed Chettinad cuisine. Saravanan pointed out that one can still find colonial remnants in Ooty. A lot of cafes can be found in and around the hill station. They serve some of the best Continental food, and the pairing of Nilgiri tea and English Breakfast is irresistible.
Coming back to the local cuisine, Saravanan said that Ooty’s food is a mixture of Shetty and Chettinad cuisines, however, the latter is dominant. “So along with the Chettinad spices we also consume a lot of steamed rice and millets and a variety of spicy curries, pickles and even chutneys,” he said adding that food from the state is predominantly vegetarian due to the majority of Tamil Brahmins but in certain pockets one will find the most authentic Chettinad Chicken, which tastes best when consumed with flaky Parothas and traditional pickles. “The cuisine is known for the complexity of flavours, and I keep telling people that this is the only cuisine that probably teaches you how to use spices correctly,” said the chef, adding that each of the spices has a distinct flavour, but they blend perfectly when used together. “Usually, the spices are grounded using a grinding stone because of which not only do the spices come together to give the dish a good flavour, but the crushing of these spices adds a certain aroma to the dishes,” he said.
People often consider Chettinad cuisine to be very spicy, so they do not want to experiment. “But if the food is paired in a certain way, you don’t feel the heat,” he said, adding that another distinct feature of this cuisine is that it uses sun-dried vegetables and meats in the dishes. It helps preserve the nutritional value of food.
“If you want to have the best flavours of Chettinad cuisine, try Idiyappam, Paal Payasam, Chicken Chettinad, Palkatti Chettinadu, Kozhakattai, Nariyal and Soya Paneer Vada, Kozhambu, Cabbage Poriyal,” the chef said, adding that there is a lot more variety. “There’s something for everyone.”
A traditional Chettinad meal consists of rice, buttermilk, pickles, papad and salads, and a specific protocol is followed wherein each dish is served at a designated place on the banana leaf.